IT was daybreak in Bawomataluo village in the Teluk Dalam subdistrict of South Nias in North Sumatra, three weeks ago. After visiting his close friends in this village with its tradition of leaping over stone pillars, Erwinus Laia left for Nias—previously the main regency before South Nias itself became one. He forbade his driver from smoking as the rental vehicle began to move off. "Later, after we get out of Teluk Dalam," he told the driver.